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FAQ: FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

CAN SUPERWAX  (or MH Superglaze) SURFACE BE WASHED OFF BEFORE IT IS SET HARD?

CAN SIMPLY BRILLIANT SUPERWAX OR MIRROR HARD SUPERGLAZE SURFACES BE BUFFED OUT?

HOW DO I DEAL WITH WITH BLACK STREAKS IN THE SUPERWAX FINISH?  ARE THERE WAYS OF PROTECTING AGAINST THEM?

I AM CONFUSED! WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES/SIMILARITIES & SPECIFIC USES OF YOUR SURFACE SEALANT/PROTECTANTS (SILKENSEAL, SIMP. BRILLIANT SUPERWAX, MH SUPERGLAZE, NON-SKID SEALANT)?

YOUR CLEANSERS SEEM SIMILAR TO EACH OTHER, YET DIFFERENT IN SOME WAYS. WHAT ARE THE AREAS OF OVERLAP AND DIFFERENCES IN USES AND PROPERTIES?

WHY ARE ISLAND GIRL®  PRODUCTS BETTER THAN THE OTHERS THAT ARE AVAILABLE AT MOST LOCAL STORES?

WHY ARE YOUR PRODUCTS  EXPENSIVE ?

ARE YOUR PRODUCTS SAFE TO THE USER AND SAFE FOR THE ENVIRONMENT?

WHERE CAN I GET YOU PRODUCTS IN A STORE? . WHY ARE THEY NOT IN THE WEST MARINE STORE WHERE I USED TO BUY THEM ?

IF YOUR PRODUCTS ARE SO POTENT, WON'T THEY DAMAGE THE ITEMS TO BE CLEANED? WHAT ABOUT THE SEAMS OF INFLATABLE DINGHIES?

HOW LONG WILL THE EFFECTS OF YOUR PRODUCTS LAST ON GELCOAT AND OTHER PLASTICS

HOW MUCH AREA WILL THE PRODUCTS COVER - HOW COST EFFECTIVE ARE THEY?

WILL YOUR CLEANSERS  REMOVE  STAINS?  WHAT ABOUT RUST STAINS?

WHAT IS THE SHELF-LIFE OF YOUR PRODUCTS  - WHAT ARE THE BEST CONDITIONS FOR STORAGE?.

WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO USE THE PRODUCTS TO REMOVE PAINTED LETTERING FROM GELCOAT OR FROM AN INFLATABLE DINGHY?

SOME SURFACE COATINGS ON GELCOAT AND PLASTICS GO YELLOW - WHAT ABOUT YOUR PRODUCTS?

DO YOUR PRODUCTS HAVE APPLICATIONS FOR GRAFFITI REMOVAL OR PROTECTION OF THE SURFACE AGAINST GRAFITTI?

WHAT USES DO YOUR PRODUCTS HAVE IN THE AUTOMOTIVE, HOME OR OFFICE ENVIRONMENT?

HOW DO YOUR PRODUCTS COMPARE WITH THE ACRYLIC-TYPE "FIBERGLASS RESTORERS"?
 
 

Q: CAN SIMPLY THE BRILLIANT SUPERWAX (OR MIRROR HARD SUPERGLAZE) SURFACE BE WASHED OFF BEFORE IT IS SET HARD?

A:  NO !

Exposure of the SIMPLY BRILLIANT coating to water before it has hardened can DULL the surface (through emulsification and loss of some initially oily gloss enhancers)  but it is STILL waterproof (beading water). The wax certainly has NOT been washed off, and the gelcoat is still protected! 

Procedures detailed in our "Online Instruction Book" will prevent slow setting of the Superwax. Our our latest "high resin" version is  particularly resistant to water dulling, being completely water repellent within 30 min. If it does rain during application, the surface is easily repaired by wiping off excess "oiliness" (microfiber cloth) and applying a coat of SILKENSEAL - it's that easy!

Our MIRROR HARD Superglaze has no wax content but many of the same resins as the Superwax. The main precaution here is to apply it in a VERY THIN COAT so that the surfaces is not excessively oily and slow setting..
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Q: CAN SB SUPERWAX OR MH SUPERGLAZE SURFACES BE BUFFED OUT? 

A: YES, but do not use polishes or compound.

The shine from a coating of these products comes from their "flow out" to a wet-look surface.  However, after thorough hardening of the resins (allowing at least one or two weeks) the surface is so hard that it can be hand buffed (microfiber cloth, paper towel or chamois) to a more "classic" look. Buffing out is really only necessay to remove bits of dirt or small insects that may have stuck to the surface while it was curing or to smooth the surface before applying another coat.  For a "wet look" follow by a thin coating of SILKENSEAL. DO NOT USE POLISHES, LIQUID WAXES OR RUBBING COMPOUND, SINCE THEIR PARAFFIN SOLVENT WILL DISSOLVE THE SURFACE AND IMBED THE GRITTY ABRASIVE.
WE DO NOT YET HAVE  EXPERIENCE WITH MACHINE BUFFING OF THESE SURFACES.
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Q: HOW DO I DEAL WITH WITH BLACK STREAKS IN THE SUPERWAX FINISH? ARE THERE WAYS OF PROTECTING AGAINST THEM?

A: LIKE THIS!

 Black streaks and/or grey streaks are caused by air pollution (sooty material or boatyard dust). They are washed by rainwater into rivulets that run down the side of the boat, leaving streaks.of pollutant soaked into the surface wax or gelcoat pores.  Any of our cleansers  will remove the streaks. On bare chalky/ porous gelcoat (worse case scenario) use our Cleanser Conditioners (SEA GLOW or NEUTRAL CLEAR) to restore the gelcoat prior to sealing the surface as described in the "Online Instruction Book".  On waxed surfaces, try ISLAND GIRL Pink mixed with water, progressing to undiluted IGP Pink for more stubborn streaks. After neutralizing with water and drying the surface,  shine is touched up by a little SILKENSEAL or Superwax.  This procedure also works on transom exhaust soot. 
OILY POLLUTANTS WILL SOAK INTO ANY SURFACE CONTAINING WAX or uncured components. Consequently MH Superglaze or painted surfaces are less  susceptible to streaking and often gentle rubbing with a dampened microfiber cloth will be all that is ncessary.
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Q: I AM CONFUSED1 WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES/SIMILARITIES & SPECIFIC USES OF YOUR SURFACE SEALANT/PROTECTANTS (SILKENSEAL, MH SUPERGLAZE)  SIMP. BRILLIANT SUPERWAX, NON-SKID SEALANT)?

A: HERE THEY ARE!

SILKENSEAL is a  water-based emulsion that cures into a thin, very flexible "plastic skin" that is water-repellant and can be "silken" or very shiny as required (can be buffed to a shine). It can be used to seal all soft rubber and plastic surfaces and can even be used as a water repellent coating on dark sunbrella!  It can also be used on chalky gelcoat as an "undercoat" for conventional wax or our SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax and/or as a "quick shine" touch up for waxed or painted surfaces.

SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax (as now formulated) is a  synthetic wax suspended as a microemulsion in a mixture of fast and slow-setting resins (no water content). Unlike a conventional wax, it is wiped on as a coating that cures into a high gloss  waterproof film. However, when completely hard (after several days) it can be buffed if necesary. Although the film  adheres well to underlying surfaces and is somewhat flexible it is most suitable to seal the surface of fiberglass gelcoat that has been restored by our Cleanser/Conditionsers (SEA GLOW and/or NEUTRAL CLEAR).  It can also be used on interior woodwork. The coating thickness is generally too thick for painted surfaces, which is why we developed the next product (below):

ISLAND GIRL®'s NON-SKID SEALANT (introduced, October 2001)
This emulsion of resins is presently sold only in conjuction with ISLAND GIRL PInk, since proper preparation of the deck surface (removal of chalk etc) is necessary for long lasting results.  It is highly water repellent, and prevents staining by air pollution, and spills of old engine oil, even Sikkens' Cetol (that is removed with the area of non-skid sealant by IG PinkSpecifically designed for gelcoat non-skid decks, it is also finding use on other "non-skid" surfaces. We are currently testing on Teak decking.Another potential use is sealing the surface of VERY POROUS gelcoat, prior to application of our Superwax or MH Superglaze .

MIRROR HARD Superglaze (our newest product) contains no wax, only resins and is used as a VERY THIN, shiny coating over smooth NEW  GELCOAT or paintwork (where it also removes light oxidation). It can also be used on bare metal  some flexible plastics and several other surfaces.
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Q: YOUR CLEANSERS SEEM SIMILAR TO EACH OTHER, YET DIFFERENT IN SOME WAYS. WHAT ARE THE AREAS OF  OVERLAP AND DIFFERENCES IN USES AND PROPERTIES?

A: I  HOPE THIS IS ADEQUATE EXPLANATION

ISLAND GIRL Pink was our original product and is (in our view) the world's most versatile remover/cleanser. i.e. it removes (by dissolving) paint overspray, grafitti, many glues and sealants. It also acts as a   cleanser/detergent with varying properties and strength, depending upon the degree of water dilution.  It is designed to be rinsed off with water leaving no residue.

By contrast SEA GLOW and NEUTRAL CLEARCleanser/conditioners are slightly less versatile as cleansers but are a little more potent as removers (especially effective in removing breakdwown products of plastic oxidation). They contain an anti-aging, suppleness-enhancing conditioner that soaks into the underlying plastic (e.g. porous gelcoat or hardened vinyl). This conditioner also protects against oxidation and growth of mildew or algae. YOU DO NOT RINSE OFF THESE PRODUCTS WITH WATER (would remove too much conditioner). INSTEAD YOU JUST WIPE OVER WITH A WATER-SOAKED PAPER TOWEL, THEN TOWEL DRY. YOU FINALLY  SEAL THE SURFACE (using our sealant/protectants - choise depends upon material being sealed) TO KEEP THE CONDITIONER DOWN IN THE PLASTIC. 

SEA GLOW™  has the additional unique advantage of restoring and preserving luminous brightness of white or colored plastics, while further protecting against UV color fade.
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Q: WHY ARE ISLAND GIRL® PRODUCTS BETTER THAN THE OTHERS THAT ARE AVAILABLE AT MOST LOCAL STORES?

A: There are many reasons, of which the main ones are:

1.  They are scientifically designed to be more versatile and effective than other available products. Therefore...

2.  Just the few Island Girl Products that make up our "system" replace most of the cleaning section at your local store! By constrast, other manufacturers often put the same ingredient in differently labelled cans to make you buy several products.

3. They will work where other products cannot work or do only a partially satisfactory job.

WE ARE THE ONLY MANUFACTURER DARING TO HOLD "CONTESTS" AT BOAT SHOWS AGAINST ANY EXISTING PRODUCTS FROM ANY SIZE OF COMPANY! THIS IS IN ADDITION TO A FULL MONEY BACK GUARANTEE THAT THE PRODUCTS PERFORM AS ADVERTIZED (i.e. far better than other products).
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Q: WHY ARE YOUR PRODUCTS  EXPENSIVE?

A: BECAUSE THE INGREDIENTS ARE EXPENSIVE 

1.  Most manufacturers base their "cleaners and polishes" on petroleum distillates and have smaller bottle sizes. Alternatively, they use a very powerful (but neurotoxic" glycol ether ("EM"), caustic (KOH), then add detergent and dilute with water. In each case the product in the bottle often costs less than the bottle itself!  Would you pay almost $100.00 per gallon for gasoline or water? 

By contrast, our cleaning products contain only the  merest traces of water and have multiple ingredients, some of which are VERY EXPENSIVE (14 different ingredients in SEA GLOW Cleanser/Conditioner). Ingredients of our SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax  and new NON-SKID SEALANT and MIRROR HARD Superglaze products  are even more expenseive. 

2. The real test is how much can you get done, and how many different jobs with (say) $10 or $20 of product, how long it takes you and how long the effects last (TIME IS MONEY!). 
WE KNOW THAT OUR PRODUCTS BEAT ALL OTHERS IN OVERALL COST EFFECTIVENESS AND THE EFFECTS ARE LONGER LASTING!
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Q. ARE YOUR PRODUCTS SAFE TO THE  USER AND SAFE FOR THE ENVIRONMENT?

A: YES and YES! 

1.  In choosing the ingredients of for our products I weigh both  effectiveness and lack of toxicity.  While a mouthful of most cleaners would be fatal if swallowed, it might take more than a whole bottle of ours! There is some potential for mild and reversible eye irritation with the cleaners and sealants. We also very clearly post that fact that CHILDREN SHOULD BE KEPT AWAY FROM THE PRODUCTS. Unlike petroleum or concentrated d-limonene-based cleaners our cleaners are not highly flammable (e.g. try putting IG Pink  on a lit match - it will go out). but are combustible (if strongly heated and/or vapors accumulate). Paper and cardboard are also classed as "combustible". Our products do not contain neurotoxic "EM" glycol ether or caustic components.

2. There is a difference between "biodegradable" and "biosafe". Snake venom is biodegradable! Our products are primarilly designed to be biosafe (low toxicity to animal and marine life rather than designed to be highly  "biodegradable". Highly biodegradable material can actually harm the environment and encourable mildew/algae growth of cleaned surfaces! (remember that phosphates encouraged overgrowth of algae in teh great lakes).

3. The mildew/algae inhibitors in our cleaners  could be a  problem IF THEY WERE PRESENT IN LARGE ENOUGH AMOUNTS. The amounts we use are just enough to accumulate in the plastic and prevent mildew/algae staining, not enough to be  toxic to the user.  However, washing hands and/or using gloves is always a good idea to avoid accumulation on the skin.  Sealing the surface (e.g. SILKENSEAL) keeps all these components down in the plastic and away from people.

4. Our SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax  and new MIRROR HARD Superglaze   are not quite so inoccuous, They do have combustible components.  They can  also cause eye irritation and some people may have senstive skin - don't rub your eyes ! The most recent version produces some fumes on hot surfaces and the same goes for our new MIRROR HARD Superglaze. As with most product, it is a good idea to protect your eyes, use gloves/ wash your hands and use good ventilation.! 
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Q: WHERE CAN I GET YOU PRODUCTS IN A STORE?  WHY ARE THEY NOT IN THE WEST MARINE STORE WHERE I USED TO BUY THEM? 

A: BUY IT FROM US AT GREAT DISCOUNTS ON OUR MAIL ORDER KITS. SINCE WE HAVE NOW MOVED TO HAWAII- NO SALES TAX FOR MAINLAND CUSTOMERS! 

You can see a list of approx 100 dealers and detailers who have this product by CLICKING HERE.

West Marine was a privately owned company that used to have customer satisfaction as their main ethos. Consequently, they had a great "Manager Buy" system in which individual store managers could sell items that were regionally specific/popular or as a means of adding variety and trying out products prior to centralized buying. With no sales force (only Dr. Willis)  ISLAND GIRL®  was very successful in demonstrating to  many managers the superiority of our products. The phenomenal sales in several stores (Palo Alto, San Pedro, San Diego, Long Beach) also produced a "snowball effect" in which  a good proportion of West Marine stores carried our products.  We invested many thousands of dollars and much effort supporting the product through print advertizing, in store demos etc with the obvious goal of getting them to distribute for us. 

Since going public (1997) , West Marine bought E&B Marine and  became overstretched and over- inventoried (check out their lousy stock prices!).  Perhaps understandably they have used their monopoly status to reduce excess inventory and deal only with major suppliers or deal only with major distributors (who take a 40-50% cut).  They have essentially  dropped their Manager Buy system, at least where maintenance products are concerned and are concentrating on their "own brands" (which are nowhere near as good). 

To obtain centralized distribution, they now demand purchase of  catalog and shelf space (extra for end caps etc.). This unilateral and sudden decision severely impacted ISLAND GIRL® and several other makers of speciality products that were rated as superior. In 2000, they ostensibly returned to Manager Buys, but absolutely discourage them. Only one West Marine Store (Palo Alto) now insist on carrying our cleaning products and they still sell strongly. WM's management are not allowing purchase of our newer products and, frankly, we do not want them to carry them, because we would rather sell direct or through stores that have remained loyal throughout. Most Boat/US stores have carried our inflatable cleaning kits from June 2001.

You can still buy our products at TAP Plastics and at the limited number of  independent marine stores remaining  (less than half a dozen in the whole of California?) . The rest have essentially been driven out of business by the aggressive business practices of West Marine (who also are major wholesalers) and other discount chain stores. 

If you want to buy through a retail store, we strongly recommend going to our "Detailers and Dealers" page for listings.
 In California, we especially recommend TAP PLASTICS , TINKER MARINE, SVENDSEN's andDOWNWIND MARINE.
 

FOR THE REASONS GIVEN ABOVE, WE HAVE FOCUSED ON DIRECT SALES TO THE PUBLIC VIA THE INTERNET AS AN ALTERNATIVE TO BEING DRIVEN OUT OF BUSINESS. Remember, chain stores want 40-60% profit margins on cleaners and like to deal through preferred wholesalers who like to make 40%. etc. If a chain store sells their own brand they are getting virtually all the profit and they are not held to price matching agreements!

Buying kits from us , or other internet stores is the most cost effective way of obtaining ISLAND GIRL®products and you can deal directly with the inventor/owner rather than someone who may be  much less knowledgable.
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Q: IF YOUR PRODUCTS ARE SO POTENT, WON'T THEY DAMAGE THE ITEMS TO BE CLEANED? WHAT ABOUT THE SEAMS OF INFLATABLE DINGHIES?

A:  THE PRODUCTS ARE POTENT, BUT GENTLE AND SELECTIVE IN NATURE

Undoubtedly the use of potent and NON SELECTIVE solvents can damage plastic surfaces. Ever tried to use acetone to remove hull scuff marks from gelcoat and paint or to clean fenders? You know it dissolves the surface! 
Toluene and Xylene are useful in some instances but are toxic and can rot hypalon (which is otherwise resistant to most solvents). D-limonene (main ingredient of citrus products) is flammable and can dissolve vinyl and polystyrene foam (used in foam core hulls (try some in a foam coffee cup!).
However,  the potent activity of our cleansers is largely "locked up"in a polymeric complex from which its  release onto the underlying surface is is controlled. Our cleaning products therefore only dissolve dirt and  plastic breakdown products NOT the plastic. 

When using our Cleansers, there is need to be careful with single part paints (especially lacquer as in nail polish) or celluloid (not really used anymore) . Also, any solvent or cleaning product (including ours)  that contains solubilizing activity  can induce crazing in heat-stressed or previously crazed  acrylic items. This effect can even be produced by glues and sealants containing solvents.

Inflatable Seams:
a) We  have soaked a segment of hypalon dinghy incorporating  two- part-adhesive seams for over one year in our NEUTRAL CLEARCleanser/Conditioner - the seam remained completely intact! 
b) Similar tests on a two-part glued PVC dinghy segment showed continued adhesion (although some reversible softening) of the glue following 4- 45 weeks continuous soaking in NEUTRUAL CLEAR Cleanser/Conditioner™ or SILKENSEAL
However, on PVC inflatables, the seams are usually welded (West Marine/Zodiac) and are therfore completely resistant to cleaners and solvents.

Single-part glues as commonly used for amateur or temporary patches or for attaching accessories. We always recommend two-part glues for all inflatable uses. If you are not sure what sort of glue is used, simply keep the cleaners away from the seams and/or neutralize with water if this does occur. 

How about Rainex in comparison with our CLEAR HORIZONSproduct?. Unlike the latter,  Rainex  contains solvent and acid and therefore cannot be safely used on clear plastics or eyeglasses. By contrast, CLEAR HORIZONS is safe for all glass (even optically coated) and all clear plastics.
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Q: HOW LONG WILL THE EFFECTS OF YOUR PRODUCTS LAST ON GELCOAT AND OTHER PLASTICS

A: LONGER THAN MOST OTHER PRODUCTS

Of course, the exact answer has to depend on the surface treated, weather, conditions of use , etc etc.
However, I can give you some real- life examples that show how long lasting the effects can be, even under tropical, salt water conditions.

1. Gelcoat:  Under tropical conditions (Honolulu, Hawaii) SEA GLOW and our other cleansers protect the gelcoat from deep and severe oxidation, but the surface must be sealed to maintain surface gloss and to prevent rain and seawater from leaching out the preservative conditioner. Here are some examples on boats in Hawaii:

a) MY BOAT  (white with dark green stripe)
Eleven Months ago,  the gelcoat  was  cleaned and conditioned with SEA GLOW and the surface sealed with 3-4 coats (to fill pits on cap rail) of SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax™  (third version, made in Oct 2000). The dark green areas were further  shined with SILKENSEAL  at 2 months.  All of the gelcoat had great water beading & shine for the first  7 (summer)  months (see Superwax page for illustration).

At eleven months, water beading was undiminished but  the dark green gelcoat ( not  the white gelcoat which is still good) had dulled but was not yet chalky. The dark green gelcoat now requires recoating. Four  months earlier one area of dark green stripe was given a double coat of MIRROR HARD Superglaze over the dulled SB Superwax™  layer. Oxidized material from the SB Superwax surface was easily removed by  the MH Superglaze, leaving a very hard &shiny surface that has so far not weathered noticeably  in  4 months.

b) A Mid Blue boat

After years of compounding and waxing, this boat  had very thin gelcoat (some glass fibers were showing through near the waterline). It was restored beautifully to a bright blue, mirror finish by SEA GLOWfollowed by SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax

The side exposed to the sun started to get a little dull and showed some water streaks by five months (should have been touched in with SILKENSEAL). At ten and a half months, it is ready for  another coat - we are going to use MIRROR HARD Superglaze this time over the original SB Superwax finish.  It will not be necessary to redo the SEA GLOW™  treatment as the surface is still sealed, beading water, just as in the beginning.

c)  California Boats
Under less severe conditions (Alameda in Northern California) the red gelcoat of a Sailboat ("Dire Straits" in Alameda Marina dry storage). The gelcoat always comes up to a  brilliant red by using SEA GLOWCleanser/Conditioner applied with paper towel. 
In March 1999, on the same boat, we again restored an area of gelcoat with SEA GLOWand sealed the surface with the then current version of our SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax.  The color and shine were virtually undiminished over a full year.  In the same yard a similarly treated blue boat looks great after about about 2 years, although it has been kept clean and was retouched  in some areas with SILKENSEAL

2.  Vinyl:  A vinyl inflatable or new upholstery exposed to direct tropical sunlight can start to get sun damaged (sticky, discolored, eventually brittle) within as little as one year under tropical or desert sunlight conditions. Even new fenders and vents get sticky (due to plasticizer migration) within 6 months.  Protecting them with SILKENSEAL will seal the surface against gumminess for at least 3 months, whether on new items or those restored by our cleanser/conditioners. White Fenders and vents can be made to last almost indefinately and with protection against mildew,  by use of  SEA GLOW, then sealing with  SILKENSEAL. More recently, we have found that an additional coat of MIRROR HARD Superglaze has completely eliminated staining and gumminess for approximately 5 month

3.  Hypalon:  My own Tinker Inflatable boat, manufactured by Henshaws in the UK was on the davits of my sailboat in Honolulu for 5 years  usually in a boatyard that generates huge amounts of dust.  The boat was periodically cleaned (about once a year since 1995). Initially, ISLAND GIRL Pink™  (then our only product) was used for cleaning, but more  recently we used NEUTRAL CLEARCleanser/Conditioner (on the mustard-colored hypalon) and SEA GLOW (on the red vinyl apron). SInce 1996, the surface has also been sealed after cleaning with SILKENSEAL . As of this website update (Jan 2002), the hyalon is still supple, and the seams still ok after all these years of cleaning (using a mild scuff pad to get into the grain). The hypalon still comes up almost "like new". The red vinyl had always come up beautifully, but finally (after 5 years) the vinyl coating was worn thin to the underlying fabric which is getting brittle and tearing.  A  new red apron (ordered from Henshaws) has been put on with two-part ahdesive, but this time it is made of  hypalon to keep the whole boat lasting well. Want to see? click here! The USA  importers of Tinker Inflatables recommend and sell only ISLAND GIRL® Products for their  new and used boats.
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Q: HOW MUCH AREA WILL THE PRODUCTS COVER - HOW COST EFFECTIVE ARE THEY?

A:  BECAUSE THERE IS NO "FILLER" THESE PRODUCTS GO A VERY LONG WAY.  THEY ARE ALSO MORE VERSATILE THAN OTHER PRODUCTS. THEREFORE THEY ARE MORE COST EFFECTIVE.  I will give examples:

1. Smooth gelcoat:
To clean and  condition the gelcoat, we  recommend using NEUTRAL CLEARcleanser/conditioner for neutral shades such as beige and  SEA GLOWfor white, blue and other bright colors.

If the gelcoat is not very porous, one bottle ($17-$20, much less as part of a kit) can do the complete topsides or complete hull sides of up to a 30ft boat, in less than half a day.   On the other extreme, if there is much freeboard and/or the gelcoat is so porous that it will not take a shine by conventional compounding and polishing,  2-3 times the amount of cleanser may be required.  The shine will be restored and the gelcoat preserved indefinitely as long as the surface is kept  sealed by the products below. 

One bottle of SIMPLY Brilliant Superwax™  can seal the gelcoat of an older 20- 30 ft boat, provided that  SILKENSEAL is used as an undercoat to minimize initial "soaking in" of the wax (seen as dull blotchy areas).  On a new boat, our new MIRROR HARD Superglazewill do up to a 35ft boat.  It  has  low viscosity and therefore  spreads a long way on NEW gelcoat (or painted surfaces) that do not soak up the product as older porous gelcoat will do. Both of these products are quick and easy to  apply in comparison with wax or (especially) acrylic sealants. both products are $25-$30 each bottle (less as part of kit).

How about cost effectiveness?  What can be accomplished  in 1-5 hours by hand with our products would take much longer using power buffing wheels etc (usual labor cost of $400 and up).   For gelcoat that is highly porous, the only alternatives are wet sanding down to good gelcoat (if there is any!) followed by compounding and  buffing (thinning the gelcoat even more) with huge labor costs. 

The alternative is  wet sanding, masking (one day's work right there!)  and then an  LPU job (up to $10,000 in yard fees).  REMEMBER OUR PRODUCTS CAN BE USED BY HAND (or cordless tools) WITH THE BOAT IN THE WATER, so you save on haul -out fees as well!

2. Dulled LPU:
Just wipe over with MIRROR HARD Superglaze™ . One bottle (approx $30)  does at least one coat (with oxidation removal) on up to a 40ft boat in less than half a day, even in the water!

3: Gelcoat non-skid: 
Every try buffing out the chalk, stains  and grime from non-skid? It cannot be done without removing the non-skid surface!  However, ISLAND GIRL Pink™  just dissolves it away (up to a 30ft boat.  For light cleaning,  especially over a sealed surface (below), the product can be used with water dilution and it then goes even further!. When the surface is sealed with our new NON-SKID SEALANT (12 Oz does up to a 30ft boat) hosing and mild brushing quickly removes dirt, grime and bird droppings.Complete Non-skid kit (ISLAND GIRL Pink + Non-skid Sealant) is about $30.00. Time saved over a year of routine wash-downs with great results -considerable!

4: Vinyl fenders and vents:
 Larger fenders can cost up to $90.00, each while even small vinyl cowl vents are now about $40.00 each, - they run up to $120.00 for the large screw-in type.  Each boat has about 3-4 of each of these items. SEA GLOW™  and SILKENSEALtogether cost  $34 (even cheaper as part of a kit). This is  enough product to do up to 20 fenders or vents. Older items can be restored - newer items never get old, and this in addition to the uses on gelcoat upholstery, inflatable dinghies etc!  Use our new MIRROR HARD Superglaze™  (approx $30, cheaper in a kit) and once a year cleaning may be all that is necessary and it does gelcoat, paint and metal as well! - NEED WE SAY MORE?

5. Inflatable Dinghies: 
 In hot, humid climates, even a covered inflatable dinghy can get deep-down mildew spots - especially if made of white hypalon. NEUTRAL CLEAR or SEA GLOWCleanser/Conditioners can prevent (but not reverse) mildew growth), especially when the surface is sealed against spore penetration by SILKENSEAL"plastic skin" surface sealant. Cost of a new dinghy? about $1,300- $8,000.  Got an older dinghy that looks terrible? Restore it like new so that its value is  increased by several hundred dollars.  Remember cost to you is about $30.00 and there is still enough product for other uses (above).

Got a vinyl dinghy (West Marine, Zodiac? ).  A year or more exposure to direct sunlight will make it go sticky, yellowed and brittleness will begin (because of loss of plasticizers and drying out). Mildew is also a problem in Florida. Cost of the dinghies - about $800 -$2,000 - protect it for about $30.00!  Same argument goes for vinyl upholstery, headliner etc etc.using the same products.

Cost to replace our few products with a plethera of "specialized" but comparatively ineffective products? MANY HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS, WITH MORE LABOR AND LESS SATISFACTORY & DURABLE RESULTS!
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Q: WILL YOUR CLEANSERS  REMOVE STAINS? HOW ABOUT RUST STAINS? 

A: DEPENDS ON THE NATURE OF THE STAIN

There are two types of stains - those that are in the intermolecular spaces or voids of plasatics . and those that become part of the actual polymeric material of the plastic or other material to be cleaned (essentially "dying" the material) 

Dealing with the first example,  rust clearly is water-related and produces stains in gelcoat or vinyl only in so far as it penetrates the pores and voids.  In gelcoat, the chalk that gets deep down in crevices of the gelcoat acts like blotting paper for rust as well as oily stains such as diesel soot.  Many people (including myself) have found that ISLAND GIRL Pink  gets most such stains out of the gelcoat. HOWEVER, IF RUST STAINS ARE VERY DEEP, A Chemical "Rust dissolver" or oxalic-based stain remover may be also be necessary. If you have problems, contact us by e-mail 

For another example of gelcoat staining,  white gelcoat became blue-stained from a  vinyl tarp  The stain was  removed by SEA GLOW (see testimonials).

On vinyl, many stains are actually only present in the intermolecular spaces filled by plasticizer and can be dissolved out by  our cleaning products (use ISLAND GIRL Pink Cleanser or NEUTRAL CLEAR Cleanser/Conditioner except for white material where SEA GLOW could be of additional benefit. There are numerous examples, including staining of a white West Marine Inflatable by its blue cover . This was removed by NEUTRAL (previously "CRYSTAL")  CLEAR Cleanser Conditioner(see testimonials).

By contrast, solvent-based stains may incorporate the stains directly into the material and they cannot then be removed without removing some of the surface  (scuffing, sanding, using non-selective solvents such as acetone).  Examples are the irremovable shadow from marker pens.  The yellow stain remaining on vinyl fenders from tar and creosote (similarly for cotton fabric) is also typical of irreversible staining. 

In Honolulu, at Ala Wai boatyard, brown mottling on white vinyl cowl vents and fenders comes from traffic film.  Similar stains are sometimes seen under  the flight path of airports. Again, such really stubborn stains can only be removed together with an outer layer of vinyl (use acetone or MEK).The vinyl surface may still be repaired and sealed by SILKENSEAL and/or MIRROR HARD Superglaze. These would likely have prevented deep staining in the first place.
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Q: WHAT IS THE SHELF-LIFE OF YOUR PRODUCTS  - WHAT ARE THE BEST CONDITIONS FOR STORAGE?

A: EVERYTHING LASTS LONGER AT MODERATE TEMPERATURES AND WITHOUT PROLONGED EXPOSURE TO SUNLIGHT OR DAMP.  FREEZING CAN DISRUPT SOME WATER BASED EMULSIONS.   However our current products are very stable, as discussed below:

Our Cleansers (ISLAND GIRL Pink, NEUTRAL CLEAR, SEA GLOW) will not lose activity for least five years under normal conditions. Some of our original batches of cleansers still work fine after nearly 8 years!. Consequently,  as we upgraded our cleaning products (1996-1997) we were able to take older product back for additional components to be added.
However, when exposed too long to heat and direct sunlight, there can be some loss of the added dye color (SEA GLOW will go greenish). Also earlier batches of NEUTRAL CLEAR may go slightly straw colored.  In both cases, there is no loss of effectiveness. SInce water reduces activity of the cleansers, prolonged exposure to high humidity,  in an open vessel, could conceivably reduce activity to some degree.

CLEAR HORIZONS has undiminished activity (in its original sealed bottle) for at least 3 years.   SILKENSEAL  has similar stability, provided that it is not exposed to high heat/humidiy, especially  with the opened bottle  exposed to high mildew conditions.

The catalyst for our BLUE HAWAIIAN MASKING GELalso lasts some 5 years, even when exposed  to hot climatic conditions. The gel component itself now has added inhibitors of biological degradation  and shelf life (in Hawaii's climate averaging 80-85  degrees F is so far over  2.5 years (would be even more stable under cool conditions).

We did originally  have some shelf life problems with the early versions of SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax . The earlier versions (April 1999 to July 2000) were formulated as a water- based emulsion containing  organofunctional  cross-linkers.  If not used soon after purchase,  the cross- linkers started to break down in the bottle at high temperatures, so that by  6 months to a year  the wax film did not always harden properly (although this could be "fixed" by SILKENEAL) . Adding preservative and increasing the concentration of cross- linker ingredients caused a different problem when stored at high temperatures - the product  tended to "kick off" in the bottle, resulting in a "gel" that did not spread evenly. WE WILL REPLACE ANY OF THIS OLD PRODUCt FREE OF CHARGE WITH OUR NEW FORMULATION (described below).

To overcome these problems, we completely reformulated the product in the fall of 2000 The new formulation of SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax contains NO water and has stability of at least 1.5  year in Hawaii's climate (85 degrees F).  Any waxy material curing  on the surface of the bottled product has negligable effects on product performance (there is ample excess of waxy ingredients).  However, if you wish, this hardened material  can be redissolved by setting the bottle in the sun and vigorously shaking the bottle (DO NOT USE FLAMES OR OTHER MEANS OF HEAT).
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Q: WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO USE THE PRODUCTS TO REMOVE PAINTED LETTERING FROM GELCOAT OR FROM AN INFLATABLE DINGHY?

A: LOOK FOR DETAILS in "Online Instruction Book". 

ISLAND GIRL Pink Cleanser (or more potent) NEUTRAL CLEAR  Cleanser/Conditioner can remove paint marks, overspray and painted lettering from gelcoat, and inflatable dinghies constructed of vinyl or hypalon. (See testimonials). In general, you just apply the product, allow to soak for a few minutes and use a mild scuff pad to remove the crinkled and partially dissolved  paint. [NOTE: Most pigmented paints  do not stain the underlying material]
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Q: SOME SURFACE COATINGS ON GELCOAT AND PLASTICS GO YELLOW - WHAT ABOUT YOUR PRODUCTS?

A: OUR PRODUCTS ARE DESIGNED TO BE NON-YELLOWING

Acrylic coatings usually go yellow with exposure to UV although this can be reduced by adding UV inhibitors, anti-oxidants, and optical brighteners.  Conventional waxes are yellow in color to start (carnuaba itself is yellowish). Furthermore  both waxes and vinyl protectants usually contain  aminofunctional silicones to impart detergent resistance. Too much and yellowing can be produced under high heat/UV conditions. However, most wax coatings are very thin and slight yellowing would only be noticable over white surfaces.  We find that  residual amounts of fluorescent conditioner from SEA GLOW after cleaning/restoring  white vinyl, hypalon and  gelcoat combine a little  with the surface  SILKENEAL) and eliminate any potential for yellowing.  The new version of SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax and of MIRROR HARD Superglaze cannot become yellowed because of the special nature the ingredients.

We once had a problems with yellowing of an older version of SILKENSEAL when used after using NEUTRAL CLEAR  to clean and condition  old vinyl chairs that were located  in the flight path of an airport.  Chairs that were covered did not yellow! 

Since then, formula modifications and procedural changes have virtually eliminated  all yellowing problems except when  produced by excessive and prolonged  air pollution.  Then, the slightly yellowed surface sealant is easily removed by again cleaning and resealing (the underlying plastic has not yellowed).
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Q: DO YOUR PRODUCTS HAVE APPLICATIONS FOR GRAFFITI REMOVAL or PROTECTION OF THE SURFACE AGAINST GRAFITTI?

A: YES (see  Testimonials,  Online Instruction Book".

ISLAND GIRL Pink is good for removing paint, marker pen and crayon marks from even quite delicate surfaces (vinyl awnings, painted surfaces, such as house walls and lexan). It also works on concrete (prolonged soaking and wire brushing). NEUTRAL CLEAR  is more potent and has been successfuly tested by the Hawaii bus company and the Honolulu City Council.  SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax  was tested on road signs and bus-stop signs and prevented marker pen or spray paint from penetrating and bonding with the underlying surface so that they were very easiliy removed by ISLAND GIRL Pink or NEUTRAL CLEAR. Our new MIRROR HARD Superglaze would be similarly protective.
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Q: WHAT USES DO YOUR PRODUCTS HAVE IN THE AUTOMOTIVE, HOME  OR OFFICE ENVIRONMENT?

A: FOR DETAILS,  SEE "Online Instruction Book". 

Obviously, our products can be used to restore/protect the fiberglass gelcoat of camper tops and RVs. Automotive, RV and home/office vinyl upholstery  also benefits from use of our products. SILKENSEALis also good as a protective coating on automotive leather, leather clothing and shoes, or rubber tires. Automotive and home chrome, mirrors, windshields etc also benefit from a coating of CLEAR HORIZONS. Our new MIRROR HARD Superglazeis especially suitable for use on auto paint that is slightly oxidized (removes oxidation and seals) and for protecting chrome and other metal surfaces against corrosion.

In the Home/Office environment, ISLAND GIRL Pink  cleans up marker pen,"liquid paper" marks and spills etc, or children's crayon marks on walls. ISLAND GIRL Pink , used with any appropriate water dilution, is also used to remove stains  on carpet or fabric, ranging from food and pet stains all the way up to oil or paint spills.

During auto repair jobs, use ISLAND GIRL Pink to clean up silicone and other sealants, paint overspray etc.  Use our Blue Masking Gel  for tricky masking jobs, around rubber moldings, emblems and engine parts. Use MIRROR HARD Superglazeto  protect plated, anodized and bare metal parts around the engine compartment (e.g. alternators, distributors). It is unexcelled for protecting chrome brightwork against salty air corrosion (as tested on Windward Oahu, HI).
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Q: HOW DO YOUR PRODUCTS COMPARE WITH THE ACRYLIC-TYPE "FIBERGLASS RESTORERS"?

A: VERY WELL! 

Several of the acrylic finishes have had problems such as yellowing, cracking and peeling. They all soak into the  the gelcoat pores, where they  eventually go grey.  Such acrylic products are difficulat to remove from gelcoat pores even with an ammonia-based stripper. Sometimes wet sanding has to be used!  Their use on brand new gelcoat is not advisable and they are not suitable for use on paint, chrome or flexible plastics. 
We have used one of these products (Poliglow) with satisfacory results to seal a piece of red gelcoat that had first been restored by our own Cleanser/Conditioner,  SEA GLOW). It is possible that such acrylic sealantst could be useful on metalflaked gelcoat where the flakes are showing through. However,  solvent-based polyurethane , or even our own gelcoat sealant products (SB Superwax™, plus  MH Superglaze,  might also be suitable. 

With this  exception, we prefer our own products,  SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax to seal the surface of restored gelcoat. SILKENSEALcan be used as an undercoat and/or "quickshine" touch up for any wax, including our SB Superwax

On PAINTED HULLS, or NEW GELCOAT, restored gelcoat (as above) or metal,  our  new MIRROR HARD Superglaze™. is ideal as an anti-weathering coating.  
No acrylic can be used for these purposes!

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